Trip to Liguria May 2007


My first trip to Italy also saw my first foray into Stansted Airport. I had got up very early that morning, and it was not nice to have gang of 8 goons standing next to me and speaking loudly, especially when their collective IQ was probably lower than the cost in Pounds of my air ticket…

Lets just say that Genoa is not about love at first sight. Leaving the airport one is quickly reminded that this has always been a city

The Port Antico (Ancient Port) has many people milling about, and first impressions will tell you that while Genoa might not be the first port of call for foreigners, this is most definitely the city of choice your young Italian bambino’s. I saw plenty of school groups queuing up for the Acquario (aquarium), the most ticketed site in the city, and also going up Il Bigo, this ultra modern ridiculously unimpressive contraption which lifts you up in the air for a birds eye view of the Port.

Genoa has quite a few of these modern tourist attractions, because in 1992 and in 2004 the city underwent a major facelift, this is because 1992 was the 500th anniversary of the city’s favourite son Christopher Columbus’s voyage to America, and in 2004 Genoa was the European City of Culture.

I went to Genoa to see my brother Brett, who I had not seen in 20 months, he was based on a yacht in one of the marina’s in the old port. Otherwise, I don’t think I would have ever ventured to Genoa. Before I went to Genoa I was seriously concerned that I would never have enough time to see all of the sights in Genoa, so I set off to explore the religious sights of Genoa.

The good thing about Genoa is that almost everything is in walking distance and soon I was in the old town and at the massive Cattedrale Di San Lorenzo, this building almost seemed out of place amongst the tight and narrow alleyways of this part of the town. It was originally consecrated in 1118, but the major developments were done in the 16th century. While traditional places of Christian worship might be battling to get bums on seats, for the middle of a work day, this cathedral was very full, the bishop was like a celebrity, the choir opened for him and he spoke, after he spoke, the accordion was played and he went around blessing everyone. There was even a television crew there to film this episode. Tucked away in the church is a large bomb which thankfully failed to explode when it hit the church.

I also went to the Chiesa Del Gesu`, just as beautiful but more peaceful, I walked in and there was a woman bending down at the confessional, and another lone woman kneeling down, hands together praying. This was built in 1597 and is the main seat of the Jesuit order in Genoa. The church does not only attract those wanting some solitude and prayer but also art aficionados. The church hosts two Rubens paintings.

The unofficial heart of Genoa is the Piazza De Ferrari, this is where the Palazzo (palace) Ducale is, where the once very mighty city used to be ruled from, the main theatre, the old stock exchange etc. After a quick stroll around here, I headed off to a remnant of the old city walls which used to defend the city from attack. The Porta Soprana might have been restored but it still gives one an idea of the threats the city used to face.

Walking down from the Porta Soprana, I noticed some political posters and one man looked strikingly similar to the face on the poster. Salvatore Cosma was running for some senior position in the city, probably Mayor, a friendly genial man, but our lack of ability to converse with one another prevented me from giving him tips to win the election.

Ethiopia might be where coffee originates but the Italians run the Ethiopians very close when it comes to coffee, I don’t think my body was ready for the sudden surge of intakes of macchiato, cappuccino and caffe latte’s. The Genovese are master barista’s and every cup was brilliant.

Each region in Italy has its culinary speciality, the Ligurians are famous for their focaccia and pesto, so that is what I had for dinner on my first night there, quite wonderful, and of course I had to tuck into my brother and his wife’s pizzas.

I got up at 04:00 and wanted an early night as I had a lot to see the next morning.

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I checked information with my Lonely Planet guide to Italy

Pic 1: Outside the Cattedrale Di San Lorenzo
Pic 2: Inside Chiesa Del Giesu
Pic 3: My love affair with Pesto Genovese begins...